Wilderness verses Access, as it relates to Fiordland, and New Zealand’s largest landslide

At the end of March I headed off with a close photography friend to explore a small area of eastern Fiordland in the Lake Monowai and Green Lake areas.

En-route we met Fiordland artist Wayne Edgerton of Tuatapere, and enjoyed a hour or two with him discussing “light” and art from the perspective of painting and photography…
Artist Wayne Edgerton


Artist Wayne Edgerton


To get into the hills we utilised a road constructed in the 1960s to service two double circuit 220 kV power transmission lines designed to carry power from a Lake Manapouri based hydroelectric power generation scheme being constructed at the same time to supply power to an aluminium smelter being constructed at Tiwai Point near Bluff/Invercargill.

The facility is the largest electricity consumer in New Zealand, and uses approximately one third of the total electricity consumed in the South Island and 13% of the total electricity nationwide, equivalent to about 680,000 households apparently.

Construction of the power station and the road/pylon line attracted controversy for its environmental effects, and over 264,000 New Zealanders signing the Save Manapouri Petition when it was revealed the lake would be raised [and it never was thankfully].

In more recent times I know that many people have pondered that maybe NZ would have been better served to use this energy to build a stronger economy.  This line of thinking has probably not been helped by successive governments, keeping the pricing and deals secret.

Borland Road Power PylonsBorland Power Pylons


Dawn in Fiordland…
Dawn in Fiordland


Dawn and power pylons Fiordland National Park…Dawn and power pylons Fiordland National Park


Fiordland robin…
Fiordland robin


Grebe Valley, Fiordland…
Grebe Valley, Fiordland


To the left of this photo, looking towards Lake Monowai, is the toe of New Zealand’s [and maybe the world’s] largest landslide…
Grebe Valley, Fiordland

It is the largest documented terrestrial landslide in NZ, happening about 12,000–13,000 years ago. The slide is thought to have occurred when glaciers propping up the mountainside melted. With its support gone, a 9-kilometre section of the mountain collapsed into the valley floor 700 – 800 metres below.


This friendly 2 year old kea spent nearly an hour with me – great company…
Kea, Fiordland


Silver Beech forest edge revealed when trees were felled that might compromise the power lines
Silver Beech forest edge, Fiordland


Using an off shoot of the road to gain a good viewpoint…Borland power pylon


As night rolled in with mist on Mt Burns I got my favourite photo for the trip of a small lake above the Grebe Valley, taken from the point where the above mentioned landslide released…
Lake above Grebe Valley, Fiordland


For the whole 3 day trip I kept reflecting how we’d not be able to see and experience this taste of wilderness if it were not for the road, but on balance I think I’d rather know that there is more wilderness going forward, rather than less, as it’s too easily eroded away in the name of business/money.

The sun shines not on us but in us. The rivers flow not past, but through us. Thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fiber and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing.

The trees wave and the flowers bloom in our bodies as well as our souls, and every bird song, wind song, and tremendous storm song of the rocks in the heart of the mountains is our song, our very own, and sings our love.

John Muir

‘Real community effort’ an owling success | Otago Daily Times Online News

The Ida Valley and the little town of Oturehua is one of my favourite places, so I was very thrilled to come across this nice story today…

Little Owls, Ida Valley
photo courtesy Otago Daily Times article as below

Four Ida Valley owls were once centimetres from disaster.Now, with the strength to fend for themselves, the birds have flown off into the wild.Yesterday the young little owls were released where they were found after spending six weeks months in captivity.Ida Valley resident  Rochelle Drury said.. […]

Source: ‘Real community effort’ an owling success | Otago Daily Times Online News

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Categorized as Little Owl

The great New Zealand lupin debate and why it matters

First we need to talk about the lupin’s favoured environment being mainily the braided rivers which drain the Southern Alps – rivers that find it impossible to run in a straight line, and be anything other than dynamic.

When in flood braided rivers carry sediment from the ever rising mountains [geologically speaking] and landslides that frequent such a young country, and at every point where the water flow slows down the carried sediment settles onto the bed of the river, thus in time raising the level of same, and the river, seeking always the path of least resistance, flows off to the side. Thus during high water levels and floods the nature of this predominately gravel environment can change in several hours

The Hunter River that flows into Lake Hawea…
Hunter River


The delightful, endemic and endangered NZ banded dotterel / tuturiwhatu is one of many birds that has evolved to breed in these river beds. Despite exhibiting a variety of seasonal movement patterns ranging from sedentary behaviour, through migration within New Zealand, to trans-Tasman migration, it is hard to not love their comical stop-start actions…
Banded Dotterel


This is typical tuturiwhatu breeding ground – also shared with wrybill and other like minded birds. OK to us humans it is pretty desolate, but keep in mind it lets them see any predators, and when they do they mimic an injury to lure rats, cats and stoats away from off-spring…
Riverbeds 2


Well meaning flower lovers of decades ago decided to brighten up the desolation, and spread the non native lupin seed. They probably never realised the above, and that each seed being coated with a type of oil to preserve it, can survive for several years sprouting only when ideal conditions exist. The perfect seed for such a dynamic bed – they of course then become impossible to get rid of, apart from annual spraying and that is not a cunning or cheap thing to do in waterways annually…
Lupins in The Ahuriri river valley


And then there are wilding pines – these ones have been sprayed. The terrain hosting cushion type vegetation is again the sort chosen for nesting…
Tasman Riverbed


No one denies the lupins look beautiful. And by-the-way after the brief flowering is over they become anything but ethereal, and more of an eyesore…
Lupins in The Ahuriri river valley


Another beautiful frequenter of the braided river environment is the black fronted tern tarapirohe. They spend hours swooping for bugs above and on the glacial silt laden blue/grey water surface, and of course breed nearby…
Tern


The natural state as another dawn breaks on a braided river in The Southern Alps…
Tasman Riverbed dawn light


If only lupins could be confined to roadsides! But even in such a place they invite suicide by flowery eyed tourists, toting cameras that are scant protection against the 110km/hr traffic that rushes by their nearby vehicles, the parking of which is more spontaneous than well thought out…
Lupins again


The two villains together on the shores of Lake Pukaki…
Lupins and a wilding pine - Lake Pukaki


The uniquely billed wrybill / ngutuparore which breeds only in braided rivers of the South Island. It is the only bird in the world with a laterally-curved bill [curved to the right], which it uses to reach insect larvae under rounded riverbed stones. Wrybills are completely dependent on the greywacke shingle of the riverbeds…
Wry bill


The News Central Otago interviewed me recently

The News, Central Otago interviewed me a couple of weeks ago because of this web site initiative. The paper and article will hit the streets today apparently. I’m wondering how it’ll present!

Simon the interviewer steered me into aspects of my history in a very professional manner. Then sooner rather than later, since the web site was born of the experience, my more recent Matukituki Trust involvement was the subject I warmed to.

The noticeable decline of birds in the valley, kea especially, over the last 20 years was the background.

Reversing this has come about due to significant efforts from the Dept. of Conservation and the huge volunteer effort that has gone into the project with over 5500 hours already. Not to mention a truck load of money!

The morning chorus is now a reality up the valley – more birds of several critical species abound, and it’s something that has been a wonderful recent aspect of my 18 months up there over the last 3 years, and now we expect to see even more improvements.

The latest strategy has been the installation of the Hells Gate Virtual Trap Barrier which with the assistance of 9 volunteers was completed 4 weeks ago .

Hells Gate – where the West Matukituki gets squeezed by the ongoing uplift of the Southern Alps due to plate tectonics
Matukituki Hells gate

Mt Aspiring Station landowners, Randall and Alison Aspinall had generously agreed to the Trust installing a tight grid of traps between the bluffs and the Otago Boys High School Lodge, to prevent animals migrating up the valley. Otago Boys High School students have expressed an interest in being involved in the project, which is great too.

106 traps of various types were installed to form a barrier at the entrance to the Matukituki Valley [Hells Gates, is just upstream from Cameron Flat – see photos]. Aim being to stop the movement of predators up the valley – cut them off at the neck, being an entry way to Mt Aspiring National Park, so to speak!

The view up the valley…
Matukituki Hells gate

With Predator Free NZ 2050 looking to support large landscape predator projects, the Matukituki Valley [Trust)] is well positioned to be part of much larger projects too.

This is very much work in progress though – with massive scope/potential
.
Lastly, in the season ending May 2017, we’ve recorded 780 kills, including 95 stoats, 117 possums and 130 rats. For the first time we have encountered a number of cats, with 12 caught.

Below are some more photos of the area…
Matukituki Hells gate


Matukituki Hells gate


Matukituki Hells gate


Matukituki Hells gate


Matukituki Hells gate

Radio Interview with DOC’s Corey Mosen on Kea, and Ajax his Kea Conservation Dog 

Corey and his dog Ajax have stayed with me a few times at Aspiring Hut in Mt Aspiring National Park, and this morning on National Radio he was interviewed by Kim HIll, where he gives an excellent 15 min. interview about where we’re at in saving our incredibly intelligent, loveable and witty alpine parrot

Hear it here >> http://www.radionz.co.nz/audio/player?audio_id=201854516

photos below by southern light…

Kea kick boxing

 

Aspiring hut 4
Although considered a pest the roots of yellow flowers here, ragwort, around Aspiring Hut, are a favoured part of the diet of keas in the early to mid summer

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